GHENT, Belgium — Ever wonder what it’s like to join the estimated 1 million fans watching the Tour of Flanders every year?
It’s cycling’s biggest keg party, and thanks to Belgium’s excellent transportation infrastructure, it’s literally as easy as jumping on and off trains.
The Belgian classics are easier to watch in person than just about any other races in Europe.
While getting a front-row seat to such iconic moments such as the Arenberg forest or posting up on a switch back at Alpe d’Huez requires overcoming some challenging travel logistics, checking off that bucket-list trip to watch the Ronde van Vlaanderen in Belgium is as easy as using the local trains.
There’s no need to rent cars or fight traffic. Jump on a flight, then check the train schedule, and you’re smack dab in the middle of “Wout Country.” Bring a bike to spice things up, and don’t forget your raincoat.
An estimated 1 million fans line the route of Sunday’s Flanders, and most of them are Belgians out celebrating an annual rite of spring.
But more and more cycling fans are discovering the joys of watching the Belgian classics in person. Thousands of Brits make the quick trip over on the EuroStar, and even the occasional ardent fan on the U.S. East Coast can jump on a six-hour flight to Brussels, and make it a long weekend.
Most North American fans enjoy a long week of a spring classics trip, taking in the E3/Gent-Wevelgem weekend with De Ronde, or take in Flanders and stay on for Paris-Roubaix.
It’s possible to freelance a trip, and there are several cycling tour groups that provide excellent service and remove a lot of the hassles that come with trying to do it alone.
Visit Flanders, the regional tourism agency (https://www.visitflanders.com/en), also provides plenty of tips and inside information.
Roubaix is a different kettle of fish, and getting out to see the French pavé sectors is more challenging for day-trippers, but the Belgian races are never far from a well-served town or city across the Flanders landscapes.
The Belgian classics are unique on the international racing calendar that nearly every race starts and finishes within walking distance of a train station. That’s rarely the case in the key stages in most of the major grand tours.
With some many of the spring classics starting and finishing in namesake cities — Milan to San Remo, original, huh? — witnessing the mythic Belgian races in person make them the most accessible events for any adventurous cycling fan.
Here’s how to watch the Belgian classics:
Pick the right base: Ghent or Kortrijk
The ideal trip is to stay over two weekends, and pick a base to head out to the races every few days. There are dozens of top cities and towns in the region, and some prefer something in the country. There are two top cities to be based, Ghent and Kortrijk.
If culture, cafés, shops, and top restaurants are your priority, pick Ghent. The bustling college town is packed with daytime attractions and nocturnal diversions to keep everyone busy between races for more than a week.
If riding is the main focus, it’s best to stay in Kortrijk. A few top teams also based there during the classics period, and all the iconic sectors are within easy riding distance.
Brugge is another option, but it’s further away from the key climbs and the riding around there is mostly on flatter roads. De Ronde is back, however, and the morning sign-on in the main square cannot be missed.
Navigating the Belgian trains
It’s easy to move around the races without having to rent a car. Not only does that save money on a rental and gas, it also avoids the hassles of trying to find parking places during the races and saves money on expensive overnight parking in the cities.
The best option is to use Belgium’s excellent network of trains to move around the races.
It’s possible to hit the start and finishes in the same day (Harelbeke is one-stop traveling for E3 Saxo Bank). Ticket prices are reasonable, ranging from $5 to $20 per trip per person, depending on how far you’re traveling.
It’s easy as one-two-three
Figuring out the train time table is easy. The Belgian train system is now fully online with an app (https://ift.tt/hLaMNkg), but it’s still worth double-checking in person before venturing out.
All the trains that arrive and depart from every station are clearly marked on schedules mounted at the entrance of the stations. Be sure to check the day of the week, and confirm you’re looking at the right direction. Each train includes a code to confirm which line it will be moving on.
Tickets can be purchased online or at kiosks at the station.
Check the correct line, and jump on. Seating is unassigned on most regional trains, and on race day, they’re packed with fans heading off to the races.
Bringing a bike? A personal preference
Is it worth it to bring a bike on race day? Cheap city bikes are usually available for rental right at train stations, and bikes are allowed on all Belgian trains.
The question is, do you want to tow your $12,000 road bike with you all day to watch the Tour of Flanders? That’s a personal choice. Having a bike on race day gives added flexibility, and it is possible to ride between the major highlights.
The downside is that there are a lot of other people with the same idea. Trying to walk through crowds in cleats and bringing your bike along is tricky, and in the most congested areas, marshals will not allow cyclists to enter with their bikes.
That means leaving your bike behind as you try to elbow in toward the sign-in areas or finish line. Locking a bike is essential, and there are gangs of bike thieves watching out for high-end bikes to steal. Tip: leave the bike on race day, and then rip your legs off the rest of the week.
Taxis are another option, especially if you want to get to Oude Kwaremont. Drivers will know the road closures and shortcuts to get you close.
Well worth the price of admission
Taking in a week of racing across Flanders is a trip of a lifetime for most North Americans.
The riding in Flanders is excellent, and there is a well-marked network of trails and routes that splay between all the major climbs, cities, and sights that dot the area.
Flanders is one of Europe’s cycling hotbeds. There are also several cycling museums dedicated to the classics in towns across the region, and it’s easy to spot teams out on training rides up the Oude Kwaremont in the days leading up to De Ronde.
Belgium is famous for its beer, and it’s possible to visit several breweries in the region, with cycling routes linking the major brands.
Watching the race is free, unless you can gain access to one of the VIP tent areas. Several touring companies include perks like VIP area access, guest-only tents along the racing routes, and full technical and travel support.
The Belgians love their bike racing. It’s pretty easy to jump on a train and arrive in Oudenaarde for the finale of De Ronde.
You won’t be lost long. Just follow the crowds carrying the big “Wout” flags.
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